Periodically I get away from The Bay for my other favorite kind of park, the National Park. Alert readers may have noticed we’ve mostly been on a tour of the California parks, and particularly alert readers will have noted that the journey has yet to include one of the Crown Jewels of the park system, Yosemite. Partly that is because of what I just noted, it is world famous. There is also a lot to say, or more specifically, type about Yosemite, so there is some basic procrastination in effect. However, after several dry winters, the golden state finally got a bit of rain, and it seemed logical to think that this would be a good spring for Yosemite Valley’s snow fed waterfalls. With that in mind, we set out for a long day trip to Mother Nature’s Granite Cathedral.

Descending Highway 120 from Big Oak Flat towards the Valley brought a positive sign when Cascade Creek was running high enough to have a crowd gathered and parking scarce.

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But that is a mere appetizer as to what awaited down the road. Take Sentinel Falls.

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Just west of Sentinel Rock, this cascade plummets 2000 feet to the valley floor, and will likely be completely dry before Independence Day. It rarely flows for more than a quarter of the year, and I had actually forgotten about it’s very existence until prepping for this trip. That should give one pause as to the kind of majesty we’re dealing with in Yosemite, one can overlook a waterfall that…..seriously….let’s zoom in a bit.

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Just this one portion of Sentinel Falls? Almost anywhere in the country that alone would justify a state park at minimum. Here it can be forgotten! Across the valley is Ribbon Falls, another ephemeral feature near El Capitan, whose 1,612 feet is the highest single drop of any in the park, but normally only exists three months a year.

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There is some water that flows year round, however. Bridalveil is the first waterfall encountered by many as they enter Yosemite Valley, and even in the driest months there is at least a trickle of liquid taking the 620 foot plunge. Easily viewed from many points in the west end, there is also a short path leading to it’s base.

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Our primary destination on this day was a pair of constantly flowing falls tucked deep into the east end of the Valley, 317 foot Vernal and 594 foot Nevada. Although many see these two from Glacier Point, reached via a one hour drive from the Valley, it requires hitting the trail for an intimate encounter with these wonders. It is tough going, but well worth the effort. One guide book opines that it is the finest single trail in the entire park, and even the captain of the debate team would have a monumental challenge proving otherwise.

The trailhead is at Happy Isles, and is best reached on the free Valley Shuttle as the nearest parking is a mile away. For the first mile or so the path is more sidewalk than trail, with wide smooth asphalt  that could accommodate a wheelchair. Well, maybe if it’s four wheel drive or being pushed by a sturdy individual because no time is wasted before we are quite clearly going uphill. Keeping an eye to the right means briefly spotting Illilouette Falls’ 370 feet of spray in the distance. A close view can only be had from the Panorama Trail which descends from Glacier Point for about 9 miles before reaching Happy Isles along the pathway under our feet. It’s a great one way hike made easy by the scheduled buses from the Valley Floor to Glacier Point

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Less than a mile from Happy Isles a small footbridge crosses the Merced River. For many it is the final destination as it provides the first glimpse of Vernal Falls upstream.

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Beyond the bridge the John Muir Trail continues up to the rim and access to a myriad of destinations; the hardiest of those among us can take the full trail for over 200 miles before culminating at the summit of Mt Whitney, highest point in California

With slightly more modest goals, we veered left onto the infamous Mist Trail to the brink of Vernal Falls. There is always at least some water in the river, but May and June can see the Mist Trail become the Deluge Trail. When the snow-pack is heavy, a hot day can can see the flows increase quite obviously in the afternoon. We had actually been hiking in a constant but lightweight drizzle since the trailhead. Although it stopped before we reached the top of Vernal, that wasn’t apparent inside the “mist” [sic] from so much water crashing into granite so close to the trail stairs.

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Ultimately things briefly level off at the top of the falls. With the rain stopped and the “mist” [sic] behind, folks spread their wet clothing and enjoyed well deserved snacks. But watch your snacks carefully. I once had a squirrel go inside my backpack, grab a zip-lock bag containing a sandwich, and make it more than 10 feet before said sandwich was rescued. New York rats ain’t got nothing on Yosemite squirrels.

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For those going no farther, a spur upriver from the falls will connect with the Muir Trail and a dry ascent back to Happy Isles. Some opt to descend the Mist Trail, including a woman with a baby on her back, but wet and steep aren’t always one’s best choice in a downhill journey. We weren’t finished with the uphill portion regardless, because Nevada Falls still lay ahead.

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And for this portion of our struggle, I am proud to announce the premier of the Micechat Virtual Reality Experience. Pretty cool, huh? Here’s how it works. Find your nearest 60 story building, then climb the stairs while looking at these photos. It’s very exciting. (We also have a beta version for the Mist Trail which only requires a 30 story building, but you must download and run supersoaker.exe).

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Another flat expanse is waiting, featuring more space, but fewer people. Do not be tempted to cool off in the river; the Merced will kill you without giving it a thought. Whether it’s being fooled by the deceptive calm of the Emerald Pool above Vernal Falls, or thinking that wading in the rapids below the bridge will be OK; many have drowned along this stretch of whitewater, all of whom would have probably had a last statement starting with “but I was only going to…..”. Don’t let it be you. Seems pretty obvious to me since even while tightly gripping a steel rail, standing over the precipice of a nearly 600 foot cliff with water rushing over it is actually rather terrifying!

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The truly motivated can proceed up nearly 3,000 more feet and the top of Half Dome, an insanely difficult trek ending with steel cables that are installed each summer, yet still so popular that it has become necessary to institute a reservation lottery for the privilege. Most will descend from this point, using the slightly longer but drier John Muir Trail. Well, except, there was a slight stretch under an overhanging cliff with water dripping off like rain, and henceforth to be known as Rain Falls. When not ducking under that unexpected shower, there is an ever changing view of Nevada Falls guarded by the towering Liberty Cap. And while you may have seen the backside of water, please direct your attention, and now behold the backside of Half Dome!

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Towards the bottom another familiar sight can be seen through gaps in the trees; it is a place many of you may have been Soarin’ over. It is indeed the highest waterfall on the North American Continent, Yosemite Falls! It starts when Yosemite Creek plunges over the precipice of a wall of granite 1,430 feet tall, exploding off of a rock ledge just below the brink. It ends with the 320 drop of the Lower Yosemite Falls 2,425 feet below, with 675 feet of roaring cascades in between.

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Like the granite monoliths of El Capitan and Half Dome, Yosemite Falls commands attention whenever it is within sight, or even sound. Though it generally dries up before the end of summer, it starts flowing again before a winter that may add the sculptural accents of ice. A trail does lead to the top and beyond, and while it doesn’t feature as many literal stairs as the Mist Trail up to Nevada Falls, it is a workout. It is the best place to see the cascades even if not going the entire distance, and until the Joker preview was announced at 6 Flags Discovery Kingdom, was part of our two day agenda in Yosemite. Unfortunately, that development turned things into an extended day trip, so we must settle for the very easy stroll to the base of the Lower Falls.

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So a long, tiring day; but despite the drive, the stalled RV on the crazy steep shortcut (READ the signs, people, never should have been there), a bit of rain, and, oh yeah, about five minutes of hail, wouldn’t have missed it. So let’s take a last look around, knowing that a return is inevitable, and savor the few teases of sunshine we received in Yosemite National Park and Half Dome, Liberty Cap, Sentinel Rock and the Iconic Yosemite Valley View with El Capitan on the left and Bridalveil Falls on the right.

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Marc Ricketts
Marc Ricketts is a writer/photographer who has not yet outgrown roller coasters, and provides news and information about San Francisco Bay Area destinations. Mark's columns can frequently be found on MiceChat in our Weekend Updates.