Beyond the Coast on California’s Channel Islands
By Marc Ricketts
As the cold of winter starts seeping into one’s very bones, the mind can’t help but picture far away isles filled with the scent of blossoms in the rainforests which are positively dripping with waterfalls while a pig sizzles at the luau back at the lanai where fire and hula dancers perform to the delight of all. Well, right off the coast of Southern California lays a string of six islands, all of which possess absolutely none of the qualities just described by your humble narrator. What will be found are some wild, rugged places that are under constant assault by the elements of wind and water and the hearty species that scratch out a life upon them as well as in the surrounding ocean. So let’s take a walk (or float? swim?) on the wild side of maritime California on Catalina and Channel Islands National Park.
Established in 1980, Channel Islands National Park (www.nps.gov/chis) consists of 5 islands off the California coast & the water surrounding each one. Many visitors to the park see little more than the Visitor’s Center at the Ventura Harbor. For those wanting to see it for themselves, park concessionaire Island Packers (http://www.islandpackers.com/) of Ventura offers boat trips to four of the five islands. The fifth, San Miguel, is off limits for the foreseeable future due to unexploded ordinance from past Naval target practice. Even then, it takes real planning to reach the outer islands. There are only 9 sailings scheduled in 2015 to tiny Santa Barbara, the park’s only southern island. Santa Rosa fares a bit better with trips every other day from April 3 through November 9.
The two islands closer to shore, Anacapa & Santa Cruz, can be reached daily, but all of them are short on facilities and amenities; even fresh water must often be brought with you on the boat. Most visitors just go for the day, although camping is available. There are often Ranger led activities soon after the boat docks, or one can explore at will. Depending upon the conditions water activities like kayaking, snorkeling or diving may be an option.
First we’re going to take the Way Back Machine deep into the pre-digital archives for a trip to Anacapa Island.
On the day in question we arrived at our Island Packers boat & discovered that it would be shared with a class of sixth graders. Now if you’ve ever looked closely at a sixth grade class you will have noticed that it is one of the strangest collections of human beings imaginable. Some look like they’re in third grade while others look like they have to shave twice a day. And the giggles and glances when they’d pair up and sneak into the cabin makes me think they were studying non-marine biology during the crossing.
Eventually we were passing Arch Rock off the tip of East Anacapa Island, for Anacapa is composed of three small islets. Although there are a handful of day trips to Frenchy’s Cove on West Anacapa (the closest thing to a beach on Anacapa) from January to April; most trips dock on the East side with stairs leading to the plateau above.
With only two miles of trails, the island can be thoroughly explored in quick fashion; if the lighthouse foghorn is active, that area will be off limits.
Though small, East Anacapa is heavily populated, by birds. The three islets are the largest breeding spot in the world for Western Gulls and they are all over from April to July. And feeding the babies isn’t as gross as you think. It’s not something that looks like fake vomit, but, rather, the mommy bird coughs up
chunks of slimy meat for the chi…….. OK, that is actually pretty gross. Moving on.
Really it is a situation where you’re on this desolate, shadeless, wind swept rock surrounded by nothing but undrinkable water, and it’s enough to make anyone feel very small. But since our species is so good at having an overly inflated opinion of itself at times, perhaps that’s a good thing.
The largest of the Channel Islands is Santa Cruz, easily visible from Santa Barbara on a clear day. Even the crossing is enjoyable and features great views of Santa Barbara and the mountains beyond. If lucky there may even be seals lounging on a buoy or a pod of dolphins surrounding the boat.
For our visit we sailed with Truth Aquatics (www.truthaquatics.com) for a day trip to the island’s coast. Although known primarily as a live aboard dive company running multi-day trips, this voyage was not a dedicated dive venture. Most folks took advantage of the available kayaks to explore the area where we anchored. Diving is still an option, and they rent equipment, but you’re on your own down below with no guide and limited visibility.
We anchored near Painted Cave, one of the world’s longest sea caves, and there was a Zodiac to take anyone not kayaking into the dark interior. If wanting to jump off a cliff make sure you’re with a competent guide that can show a safe spot. And if you have issues with your dive gear that really isn’t the crew’s issue, but they let you borrow a replacement anyway; tip kindly!
So you may be thinking at this point that an island more remote than Tom Sawyer’s may be fun to explore, but like your adventures to be a bit softer around the edges. No worries, then; you’ll be wanting to visit Catalina.
It becomes apparent that this is a more comfortable island the moment you step aboard the speedy, stable catamaran from Catalina Express (http://catalinaexpress.com/) for the quick trip from Long Beach. Docking in the town of Avalon an hour later may not bring a welcome from a lei bearing cutie, but there may be a pelican.
The landing is at one end of a crescent of water known as Avalon Bay which curves across the front of the town before ending at the Catalina Casino; in this usage, the casino is a hall of dance as opposed to a hall of chance with a ballroom located above a theater. Cars are almost non-existent here, which is astonishing for a town that is technically within LA County. It’s easy to walk to most destinations within town but there are rental opportunities for bicycles and the principal form of motorized transportation: the golf cart. While you’re tooling around town in your cart, you can ponder why a 2 hour rental costs as much as a one day Nissan Maxima rental out of LAX?
Avalon has a collection of shops and restaurants as would be expected in a town that frequently hosts cruise ships for the day. Being farther south than the other islands we’ve visited, the water is warmer, especially in the shallow water at the beach.
To the left of the boat landing is a small cove suitable for snorkeling. The water is also clearer here, and glass bottomed boats regularly pass. A wet suit can be rented which will take off any chill (warmer or not this ain’t the Gulf of Mexico) plus the added buoyancy can be comforting for anyone not accustomed to open water.
Over by the Casino, there is a dedicated underwater park with easy stair entry and nearby equipment rentals. While becoming a certified diver is certainly an option if one is on the island for several days, anyone 10 and up can try a dive or two with Scuba gear after some introductory training and while closely watched by an instructor.
From some man-made objects to many types of fish from schools of what is essentially live bait to the unmistakable orange of the Garibaldi, California’s state fish, swimming through the kelp is like the underwater equivalent of a hike through a forest.
And though there aren’t many forests on the islands of Catalina, there are some trees here, even some palm trees. Jeep tours lead into the interior, and the nighttime flying fish tours must be seen to be believed. So when looking for something different to add to that Southern California vacation, from a deluxe hotel and spa to a primitive camp site that doesn’t even have a source of fresh water, perhaps looking offshore is the way to go.
While You’re In The Area!
That big cruise ship that is passed heading out of Long Beach Harbor is, of course, the Queen Mary. She may not sail anymore, but she still hosts weddings and banquets, and there are many options for tours and even overnight stays.
http://www.queenmary.com/
FRIDAY, MARCH 13 – SATURDAY, MARCH 14, 2015
Spring 2015 Girl Scout Overnight
Camp Inside the Boardwalk’s Cocoanut Grove
SATURDAY, MARCH 14, 2015 & SUNDAY, MARCH 15, 2015
HIT WORLD CUP SERIES Cheer and Dance Championships
A two-day, international competition. Top winners will receive championship rings and banners.
FRIDAY, MARCH 20 – SATURDAY, MARCH 21, 2015
Spring 2015 Boy Scout Overnight
Camp Inside the Boardwalk’s Cocoanut Grove
MARCH 28 – APRIL 12, 2015
Spring Break at the Boardwalk
Ditch the books and hit the beach for Spring Break at the Santa Cruz Beach Boardwalk!
Enjoy the beach, rides, free magic shows, and come meet Scooby-Doo & Shaggy – as seen on Cartoon Network.
Last but not least, MyBoardwalk Cards are replacing individual ride tickets. These are the same cards that replaced Arcade Tokens last year, and can also be used to play midway games. If you have any individual ride tickets left over from last year, don’t worry – you can still use them.
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