Nice work as always!
Nice work as always!
I'm envisioning a lot of freaked out kids if we added this to our photo meetup. Can you imagine the looks with 10 photographers standing there clicking away - like the red carpet at the Oscars or something :)
I think you get arrested for flashing in Disneyland ;)
I have wanted to try my hand at the Princess Faire since seeing this photo by SGG-Pictures:
~Princess Fantasy Faire - Snow White~ | Flickr - Photo Sharing!
He takes some great character photos!
Todayís ďDisneyland Photo Tip of the DayĒ takes yesterdayís post about Portrait Photography and the one about using Noise Reduction to improve skin tones a few steps further to improve less than perfect portraits.
Today we delve deeper into post processing and learn some new skills in Photoscape.
Weíll begin with this photo of Cinderella taken in the upper part of Princess Fantasy Faire. In the upper level, the Princesses are standing right in front of the backdrop and the lighting is stronger and less natural than it is in the lower area. You can see that it is a little overexposed and is a little crooked to start with.
First we will open it in Photoscape and click on the Rotate Arbitrarily button. It's the little curved arrow right below and to the left of the photo.
That brings up this window. Iím using the grid line and the big stone on top to straighten the photo by rotating it to the right 1.95 degrees.
Next we are going to crop the photo by clicking on the Crop Tab and Crop Freely.
Iím cropping it pretty tight to the body, just keeping the upper half with a little space around it because I want to leave some room for a vignette at the end.
Next I click on the Bright,Color button and go up to Contrast Enhancement Ė Middle. This will cut down on the over exposure a touch and help bring out some color and sharpness.
You can see that even though she is wearing blue and against a blue background, the lighting makes her skin tone a touch too red. To adjust this, I click on the Bright,Color button Ė Color Curves.
That brings up this window which allows you to control the saturation of colors and especially those colors individually. Since I want to cut down the red, Iím going to uncheck the Blue and Green boxes and only work on the Red. I click on the diagonal line in the grid and drag it down just a bit to bring down the red tones in her skin. Click OK. If I wanted to increase the red, I would move the mouse above the line. NOTE: This tool is extremely useful for all kinds of editing.
You might also notice that there is some light reflecting off her upper lip and teeth. We need to zoom in as much as we can so click on the zoom button right below the image.
Weíll start with the teeth. In the Tools tab, click on Paint Brush. Click on the little eye dropper and pick a spot on her teeth as close as you can get to the bright spots we want to cover up. This will fill the paint brush with that color. Click on the small brush size and carefully paint over the bright spots.
Next we fix the upper lip using the Clone Stamp Tool. Also using the small brush size, click on a spot as close to the bright spot on her upper lip as you can and that will give us the color tone we want to clone. Carefully, little bit by little bit fix the spots on her lip until it looks natural. If you need to release that specific spot that you are cloning just hit the Escape button and pick a new spot.
Here is what it looks like after the touch ups.
While Iím zoomed in, I can see that it needs a little sharpening. I clicked on the Sharpen button and chose level 6.
Next Iím going to smooth out her skin a bit by clicking on the Filter button Ė Smart Blur (Clear Skin).
That brings up this window that allows me to control the amount of the blur we apply. Iím going to pick the middle and set it at 4 and click OK.
Letís zoom back out and look at the photo now. It still seems a bit too bright for my liking.
To fix that, Iíll go to the Bright, Color button Ė Darken Ė Low.
Now I want to sharpen just the eyes. For this Iím going to click the Filter button and choose Region (Out of Focus).
That brings up this window with all kinds of choices. We want Sharpen, so that is what we are going to choose. Move the crosshairs over one eye and set the Level to 150%, the Size to 2% (so it only covers the eyes) and the Feather to 70%. (Feather controls the hardness of the edge of the effect. The larger the feather, the softer the edge.) NOTE: If you check the little box for Reverse the Area, it will sharpen the entire image and not the eyes. Also a useful tool depending upon what effect you are working with.
Next Iím going to add a Vignette to the image by clicking on the Filter button Ė Vignette #1.
I want to make the Vignette a little darker, so Iím going to click on it again and choose #2 this time so itís only the corners getting darker.
Iím happy with the photo so now I click on Save, which brings up this window. I choose Save As (so I donít alter the original photo) Make sure you have Maintain the Exif Information box checked. You never know when you might need that info.
Save it as whatever you want to call it. I use the image number plus Final. Make sure to choose the file type as JPEG.
And here is our final image.
I know this seems like a lot of work, but it really only took me less than 10 minutes. The trick is to know all the things that Photoscape can do and how to move through them in a simple and logical path.
I know I could have done this type of editing in Photoshop Elements with greater control and possibly better results (maybe not) but I really did all this to show you some of the capabilities that Photoscape has and open the door to other editing techniques that we will be using in the future.
© Michael Greening 2010
I was at the park about 10 days ago and inspired by the fabuouse DLRR photos shared on the Disney Parks Blog, I made my attempt at a compelling shot without having the access!
Ready to head through Splash Mountain by The Mur, on Flickr
HotSauce, your instuctionals are so easy to follow because of your great screen shots and step by step explanations. These portrait ones are especially good.
themur - your photo has some great elements to it - the highball, the light in the tunnel but not being able to see the other side, and the lantern, and not being able to see the engineer's face (although you notice he's there) adds some mystery.
I see so many of the same shots of the train that I really dig something different. Kudos.
Nice write up HotSauce. The screen shots are a really great feature.
I'm glad you like the screen capture posts because I have another one for you today.
Today’s “Disneyland Photo Tip of the Day” pays a visit to the Great Moments with Mr. Lincoln waiting area and shows how to think outside the box when it comes to editing photos.
Here is the original photo of the Capitol Building model in the waiting area of the Opera House. You can see that there are 3 lights in the ceiling as well as the walls and the painting of Lincoln that are major distractions. This would look a lot better if the background was clean and completely dark.
Let’s open it in Photoscape and start with the spotlights. In the Tools tab, I click on Clone Stamp and choose a large brush.
Select a spot near the spotlights and then cover them up with the clone.
After the spot lights I’m going to clone over the painting and get rid of it. As I get closer to the building, I switch to the small brush size and clean up around the edges.
Next I choose the Paint Brush Tool and use the eye dropper to select a dark color from the ceiling. Using a large brush, I paint over the walls and any remaining distractions in the black background. You can hold down the mouse button and just go back and forth with it. It is a good idea to do a little bit at a time so if you mess up, you can just hit the UNDO button and erase your mistake.
Next, I want to darken the lower half of the photo because the bottom part of the building is little brighter than the upper section. Here is where we have to know what the programs can and can’t do and then know how to find a way around it to do what we want.
The best way to darken the lower part of the photo would be to use the Graduated Tint and just put a slight tint over the part that is too bright. There is a problem with this though. The Graduated Tint will only go downwards from the top of the photo. That means it’s time to think outside the box and use the programs abilities to get what we want. The trick is to use the Flip button and flip the photo upside down.
Now we can go to the Filter button and click on Graduated Tint.
That brings up this window to control the tint. I put the crosshairs at the spot where I want the tint to end, right at the tip of the pediment. I set the Feather at 100% so there is no line where the tint ends. From there I slid the Shade slider to 45% to make the lighting even across the entire building.
After that, all we have to do is flip it over again and save it as whatever we want to call it.
Here is the finished image.
I hope today’s little lesson inspires you to learn what a program can do, what limitations it might have and then think about simple ways to get around those limitations and achieve the result you desire.
© Michael Greening 2010
Your step-by-step screen shots and explanations are fabulous!!!! Thanks bunches! :)
Todayís ďDisneyland Photo Tip of the DayĒ put us right in the middle of Converging Lines.
In previous posts, Iíve shown that using lines can add interest to your photographs as well as lead the viewers eye into the photo and direct them were you want to go. Using Converging Lines (two or more lines that converge or come close together at a point in the distance) can be a great technique to draw the viewerís attention right to a specific point or just draw them into the image.
The typical image we think of when we hear converging lines would be taken by a photographer standing between two train tracks that head off into the distance. Since we canít stand on the train tracks at Disneyland, we have to make due with Trolley Tracks or left over People Mover Tracks.
A stairway can also be a great example of converging lines.
The rope bridge in Tarzanís Treehouse is another example.
As well as the rope and barrel bridge on Tom Sawyerís Island. For this photo I saturated the colors and gave a soft blur to the outer edges of the photo to further enhance the pull down the bridge.
Converging lines donít always have to be right down the middle of your photo. They can add more dimension if they are off to the side running down the edge of the photo.
Converging lines can also be made up of multiple lines that meet at some point.
Tips for photographing Converging Lines.
- Using a Wide Angle lens can really enhance the effect of the convergence, especially when standing between the two lines.
- Keep compositional rules in mind such as the Rule of 3rds when shooting converging lines. For example keep the point of convergence on one of the horizon lines.
I hope this little trip down the line opens your eyes to some new photographic opportunities.
- If possible, add more interest to the photo by having an interesting subject at the point of convergence, such as a train at the end of the tracks.
© Michael Greening 2010
I love to see converging lines because of the depth they convey, and your photo of the barrel bridge is the best example!
Where is that stairway from?