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  1. #1336

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    I am sooooo jealous you got these angle Mike. From what I am reading, there will be no parades during my visit in September. I would love to shoot the parade from this spot.

    Were you using an external flash or your on camera flash?

    Now to pick a bone with you ;-) your "flash on" "flash off" now has the "clap on" "clap off" jingle stuck in my head.....dang it!

  2. #1337

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Quote Originally Posted by CharlotteS View Post
    I am sooooo jealous you got these angle Mike. From what I am reading, there will be no parades during my visit in September. I would love to shoot the parade from this spot.

    Were you using an external flash or your on camera flash?

    Now to pick a bone with you ;-) your "flash on" "flash off" now has the "clap on" "clap off" jingle stuck in my head.....dang it!
    I was using an external flash unit. Now you have it stuck in my head too!
    Life is far too short for bland food!


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  3. #1338

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Old



    New thanks to the Weekend Update


  4. #1339

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Gad to see that your shots came out so well, Mike! And I was NOT squealing like a 14 year old girl at a Bieber Concert.

    It was more like Meg Ryan in "When Harry Met Sally" right before the lady says "I'll have what SHE'S having." "Yes.....! YES! YEEEEEEESSSSS!"

    LOL...

  5. #1340

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    8-2-11

    Today’s “Disneyland Photo Tip of the Day” is an answer to niklj’s question about Creating a HDR image out of a Single Exposure photo.

    Most of the time when I’m taking pictures at Disneyland I am shooting bracketed exposures unless it is something like a parade or a ride or anything that I know will be moving. However, there are times, even when your standing perfectly still that a set of 3 exposures won’t work for a HDR. Most commonly, if people are walking through the scene or if there are leaves blowing in the breeze. That is when you should consider just shooting a single exposure in RAW format and making the HDR out of it. It is a few extra steps but it can make all the difference in the world, especially in sharpness and clarity of the image.

    Let’s start with this photo of the Photo Supply Shop on Main St. I originally shot it as a bracket of 3 exposures. I took them hand held because it was so bright outside that I had fast enough shutter speeds to pull it off. (or so I thought)

    This is the final HDR image from those 3 hand held exposures.


    At first glance, it looks ok, and that “ok” is definitely generous in my opinion. But if you look closer, especially at the cast member walking in the scene, he’s a bit messed up. He’s perfect if he is going to be playing the Headless Horseman in the Halloween parade but I would prefer it if his head was actually attached to his neck.


    This is the perfect example of a time when you would need to make the HDR out of a single RAW photo to prevent this poor Cast Member from losing his head.

    First, I open the normally exposed RAW file in Adobe Camera RAW that comes with Photoshop Elements and process it to look the way I want it to by increasing the fill light for the doorway, brightening it up a bit, increasing the contrast, clarity and saturation a touch.


    Then I save it as a jpeg with its image number -0 and set it aside.


    Next, I open the same RAW file again in Adobe Camera RAW and change the Exposure to +2


    Then simply convert it to a jpeg and save it as the same file +2.


    Again, open the same RAW file and change the exposure to -2, convert it to a jpeg and save it as the same number -2.


    Now you will have these 3 exposures in your file.


    When you open Photomatix to make the HDR, those are the 3 you use.


    When the Preprocessing Options window comes up, you can uncheck the Align Source Images and Reduce Ghosting Artifacts boxes because you know that all your images line up exactly since they are the same image.


    I processed it as I normally do in Photomatix and then I merged it with the single 0 exposure image in Photoshop Elements. I also took the +2 image and layered it on top of this and layer masked in just the doors to the store at 25% to brighten them up a bit. Here is the result.Thankfully the CM still has his head.


    Here’s another example of a hand held 3 exposure HDR I took at the Disneyland Hotel pool.


    You can see how the breeze made the palm fronds a blurry mess.


    I did the same thing with the single image, converting it to the 3 different exposures and here is the much improved result.


    I hope this little tip can help you save some images that might otherwise end up in the recycle bin.

    Happy Snapping
    © Michael Greening 2011

    For a complete directory and direct links to all of these posts, pleaseclick here: http://micechat.com/forums/disneyland-resort/140579-disneyland-photo-day-50.html#post1056358940
    Last edited by Hot Sauce 1; 08-08-2011 at 11:24 PM.
    Life is far too short for bland food!


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  6. #1341

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce 1 View Post

    When the Preprocessing Options window comes up, you can uncheck the Align Source Images and Reduce Ghosting Artifacts boxes because you know that all your images line up exactly since they are the same image.

    Excellent post Mike!
    Another tip for ghosting issues:

    The reduce ghosting option in Photomatix allows you to fix this as well if you choose the semi-manual option. (I use the latest beta version of Photomatix some titles below may be a bit off but it works in any of the latest versions.)

    To do this, first select semi-manual on the processing options. Once the program aligns the images, reduces noise or chromatic abberations, it will open a new window with a preview of the HDR.

    To correct the ghosts, i.e. the headless CM, you drag your mouse over the area you want to remove, in a sense draw a circle around it with your mouse. Once you select all of your areas for de-ghosting you right click on each area or circle that you drew and choose the "mark selection as ghosted area" option. There is a preview button on the left that shows you what it will look like when you are done if you are worried that you did it wrong.

    If for some reason the preview doesn't show that the ghosting is fixed you can choose from which photo you want to keep in the ghosted selection. To do this, right click on the ghosted area you marked, i.e. the circle, and choose "Set another photo for selection" which gives you a drop-down menu of the bracketed photos. From here you can choose either the properly exposed, darkened, or lightened photo. And voila! Ghosting fixed.
    ____

    So far, I haven't set up any brackets when I do my HDRs. Call me lazy, but HDRs from a single image just seem easier, lol. And for the most part my HDRs have all come from my old point and shoot photos. So another tip for processing JPEGs instead of RAW files for an HDR is, in Photoshop there is an option to adjust the brightness and contrast settings together as opposed to the exposure settings. For a +1, +2, or +3 image I crank up the brightness and reduce the contrast so that way highlights aren't totally blown out. For a -1, -2, -3 image I simply do the opposite of this, lower the brightness and boost the contrast ever so slightly (watch that you don't add too much contrast) to add definition. When I merge them into Photomatix all I have to do is tell it which photo is the +exposure and which is the -exposure and process them like you would any other HDR.

    I've tried to do this with RAW files and the Camera Raw in Photoshop via tweaking the exposure settings but it doesn't cut it for me. It blows out the highlights and adds way too much black.

    As an example, my latest HDR was done with via the brightness/contrast method.
    Afternoon In Paradise by `Andrea [anndreeühh], on Flickr

  7. #1342

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Great tutorial as always Mike!

    Excellent Paradise Pier photo and Photomatix tip Anndreeuhh!

    Thanks to both of you!
    Died in 1720 ya know...

    Checkout all my Disneyland photos
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  8. #1343

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    I'd be interested in a tutorial about adding fill light or brightening exposures in specific areas. Maybe I'm more 'mask inhibited' but looking for a quick tidy ways of lightening up specific areas of photos without making it look like I did it with kiddie scissors
    Check out my blog - Coreplex: Rambling from inside the Grid


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  9. #1344

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Do the results change much between a set of bracketed shots vs. a set of changed exposures made from the same picture? Do you prefer to use the bracketed shots when possible?

    I have put very little effort into HDR photography and I am curious what your personal preference is.
    - Bobd

  10. #1345

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Quote Originally Posted by anndreeuhh View Post
    Excellent post Mike!
    Another tip for ghosting issues:

    The reduce ghosting option in Photomatix allows you to fix this as well if you choose the semi-manual option. (I use the latest beta version of Photomatix some titles below may be a bit off but it works in any of the latest versions.)

    To do this, first select semi-manual on the processing options. Once the program aligns the images, reduces noise or chromatic abberations, it will open a new window with a preview of the HDR.

    To correct the ghosts, i.e. the headless CM, you drag your mouse over the area you want to remove, in a sense draw a circle around it with your mouse. Once you select all of your areas for de-ghosting you right click on each area or circle that you drew and choose the "mark selection as ghosted area" option. There is a preview button on the left that shows you what it will look like when you are done if you are worried that you did it wrong.

    If for some reason the preview doesn't show that the ghosting is fixed you can choose from which photo you want to keep in the ghosted selection. To do this, right click on the ghosted area you marked, i.e. the circle, and choose "Set another photo for selection" which gives you a drop-down menu of the bracketed photos. From here you can choose either the properly exposed, darkened, or lightened photo. And voila! Ghosting fixed.
    ____

    So far, I haven't set up any brackets when I do my HDRs. Call me lazy, but HDRs from a single image just seem easier, lol. And for the most part my HDRs have all come from my old point and shoot photos. So another tip for processing JPEGs instead of RAW files for an HDR is, in Photoshop there is an option to adjust the brightness and contrast settings together as opposed to the exposure settings. For a +1, +2, or +3 image I crank up the brightness and reduce the contrast so that way highlights aren't totally blown out. For a -1, -2, -3 image I simply do the opposite of this, lower the brightness and boost the contrast ever so slightly (watch that you don't add too much contrast) to add definition. When I merge them into Photomatix all I have to do is tell it which photo is the +exposure and which is the -exposure and process them like you would any other HDR.

    I've tried to do this with RAW files and the Camera Raw in Photoshop via tweaking the exposure settings but it doesn't cut it for me. It blows out the highlights and adds way too much black.

    As an example, my latest HDR was done with via the brightness/contrast method.
    Afternoon In Paradise by `Andrea [anndreeühh], on Flickr
    Outstanding tip Andrea. I was wondering about trying it with a jepg and seeing how well it works. I know yours are always outstanding, so it can definitely be done. I've never explored the Semi Manual feature in Photomatix. I will have to give that some time. (assuming I ever have any)

    Quote Originally Posted by flynnibus View Post
    I'd be interested in a tutorial about adding fill light or brightening exposures in specific areas. Maybe I'm more 'mask inhibited' but looking for a quick tidy ways of lightening up specific areas of photos without making it look like I did it with kiddie scissors
    "Kiddie Scissors" Love it. The worst part is I know exactly what you mean. I will look into doing a post on this for Friday. I'll see if I can show it in a few different ways and different programs.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bobd20011 View Post
    Do the results change much between a set of bracketed shots vs. a set of changed exposures made from the same picture? Do you prefer to use the bracketed shots when possible?

    I have put very little effort into HDR photography and I am curious what your personal preference is.
    I do prefer to use original bracketed photos when possible because when in the RAW format, the computer can recover parts of information from one exposure that might be lost in another. If there is a section that is a blown highlight in the 0 exposure image, it will also be blown out in the -2 and even worse in the +2. when you change them yourself. If it was taken as a -2 in the camera, chances are that blown highlight won't be blown and can be used successfully.

    There are many spots in Disneyland that you have to take a set of bracketed exposures that go all the way down to -4. I did one a while back of the Pirates entrance at night and had to use the Pirates of the Caribbean sign from the -4 so it was readable. All of the other exposures for it were totally blown out and nothing but white. The same goes for that spot in the center of the castle that is so over lit. If I had to use a single 0 exposure image for those, it would still be over exposed and wouldn't balance out with the rest of the lighting of a HDR scene.

    If it is a daytime shot that I am thinking of using as a HDR, I keep my exposure compensation down at least -1/3 and can use a single exposure, then change those in the computer. If it is a night time shot with any bright lights or lit signs, I have to shoot all the exposures in the camera.
    Life is far too short for bland food!


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  11. #1346

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce 1 View Post



    "Kiddie Scissors" Love it. The worst part is I know exactly what you mean. I will look into doing a post on this for Friday. I'll see if I can show it in a few different ways and different programs.
    Maybe you can do a post on all the different ways to do selections (lasso, masks, pen tool, quick select, refine edges, etc.)

    Thanks for the excellent HDR post, Mike! In some ways, the single shot HDR looked better and more natural! Definitely gonna try this one for sure.

  12. #1347

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Thank you for the detailed repsonse. I didn't really think about it, but you are absolutely right. Once the highlights are blown, there is no getting them back no matter what adjustments you make on the RAW file!
    - Bobd

  13. #1348

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    8-9-11
    First let me apologize "again" for taking so long to get this tutorial up. As I've said before, work has been crazy busy lately.

    Today's "Disneyland Photo Tip of the Day" is inspired by Flynnibus who asked about brightening up specific areas of a photo without making it look like it was done with "Kiddie Scisors."

    There are several different ways of doing this, all of them effective in their own way, so I will go over some of them using different programs and different techniques. I'll start with one of my favorite tools in the free program Photoscape.

    We'll start with this shot of the Astro Orbiter taken on a sunny morning. The sun is still a little behind the orbiter making the side facing us, in a little bit of a shadow.


    Zooming in, you can see that the spheres could use some brightening up on the undersides of them.


    First I'll open it in Photoscape.


    In the Filter tab dropdown menu, go to Region Out of Focus.



    In that pop up menu, choose Brighten and make sure it is set on Radial at the top.


    First I clicked on Reverse the Area so I am brightening the circle around the crosshairs and moved it to the first orb on the orbiter. I like to increase the Feather to anywhere between 65% and 80% to really smooth out the difference between the area I am brightening up and the area I'm not. Then I just adjusted the Size Slider to 9% so I only lightened up the small part that of the orb that I want to. Then adjust the Level of brightness to where you want it to be and click OK.

    TIP: If you set the brightness level as high as it will go, it is much easier to see what size you need to adjust the circle.


    Here is the before...



    Here is the after...



    Then I just repeated the same thing a few more times brightening up each spot that needs it.





    Here is what it looks like after those adjustments.



    For the final touch, I clicked on the Backlight pop out menu and the (+/-) 25%. This brings out the detail, color and contrast by brightening up the back details of the image.

    Be Aware: If you hit the backlight any more than the (+/-) 25%, you will start to get halos around the subjects.


    Here it is after the backlighting.



    And the final image.


    The next few tutorials will explore different techniques for brightening up areas of a photo in Photoshop elements.

    Happy Snapping
    © Michael Greening 2011

    For a complete directory and direct links to all of these posts, pleaseclick here: http://micechat.com/forums/disneyland-resort/140579-disneyland-photo-day-50.html#post1056358940
    Life is far too short for bland food!


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  14. #1349

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    Quote Originally Posted by Hot Sauce 1 View Post
    8-9-11
    First let me apologize "again" for taking so long to get this tutorial up. As I've said before, work has been crazy busy lately.

    Today's "Disneyland Photo Tip of the Day" is inspired by Flynnibus who asked about brightening up specific areas of a photo without making it look like it was done with "Kiddie Scisors."

    There are several different ways of doing this, all of them effective in their own way, so I will go over some of them using different programs and different techniques. I'll start with one of my favorite tools in the free program Photoscape.

    We'll start with this shot of the Astro Orbiter taken on a sunny morning. The sun is still a little behind the orbiter making the side facing us, in a little bit of a shadow.


    Zooming in, you can see that the spheres could use some brightening up on the undersides of them.


    First I'll open it in Photoscape.


    In the Filter tab dropdown menu, go to Region Out of Focus.



    In that pop up menu, choose Brighten and make sure it is set on Radial at the top.


    First I clicked on Reverse the Area so I am brightening the circle around the crosshairs and moved it to the first orb on the orbiter. I like to increase the Feather to anywhere between 65% and 80% to really smooth out the difference between the area I am brightening up and the area I'm not. Then I just adjusted the Size Slider to 9% so I only lightened up the small part that of the orb that I want to. Then adjust the Level of brightness to where you want it to be and click OK.

    TIP: If you set the brightness level as high as it will go, it is much easier to see what size you need to adjust the circle.


    Here is the before...



    Here is the after...



    Then I just repeated the same thing a few more times brightening up each spot that needs it.





    Here is what it looks like after those adjustments.



    For the final touch, I clicked on the Backlight pop out menu and the (+/-) 25%. This brings out the detail, color and contrast by brightening up the back details of the image.

    Be Aware: If you hit the backlight any more than the (+/-) 25%, you will start to get halos around the subjects.


    Here it is after the backlighting.



    And the final image.


    The next few tutorials will explore different techniques for brightening up areas of a photo in Photoshop elements.

    Happy Snapping
    © Michael Greening 2011

    For a complete directory and direct links to all of these posts, pleaseclick here: http://micechat.com/forums/disneyland-resort/140579-disneyland-photo-day-50.html#post1056358940
    Since I'm not familiar with the program you used, I'm not sure how easy it actually is to use, but it seemed pretty complex. Isn't by far the easiest way to bring out shadows by using the fill light slider (ACR, LR) or an adjustment layer mask (PS)?

  15. #1350

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    Re: The Disneyland Photo of the Day...

    ^^^ Wow, that was a long quote.
    - Bobd


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